POV: You’re Heading Down Bangla Road During Songkran
Last year, I ventured down to Phuket for Songkran. I decided to grab my DJI-Action 3 make my way to Bangla Road, the entertainment district of Phuket. From bikini-clad buxoms to monkeys hanging out on people’s shoulders; the experience did not disappoint.
My First Songkran Experience
In my fifteen years living abroad, I have been blessed by experiencing a multitude of festivals, celebrations and local holidays, and I can say this with complete conviction: None of those experiences compared to my first Songkran.
Sitting in my office, my colleague and I were discussing the holiday. I remember her advising me to get a ziplock bag for my phone, and a change of clothes, yada yada yada. I didn’t think much about it. As a long-time expat, I’ve heard these types of premonitions before regarding local festivities and holidays, but I can humbly say, I was not ready for the absolute insanity for which I was about to experience.
A passport replacement later, a cell phone repair, and a pair of shorts lost on a warm April night in Patong, needless to say, I underestimated her advice. Let me be your guide to help minimize the damage and maximize the experience of the Songkran Festival.
A Brief History Of Songkran
Songkran, the Thai New Year, is by far the most important holiday in the country. If you could combine Christmas, New Years and Independence Day into one holiday, it would give birth to Songkran.
Rooted in Hindu and Buddhist traditions, Songkran represents the ending of the dry season and the anticipation of the wet season. In the past, the wet season was crucial to Thailand’s agrarian society, and even now, with a large portion of the country still agrarian, the holiday inspires hope, rebirth and prosperity.
Historically, Songkran was a holiday in which Thais gave merit (a Buddhist practice that a force accumulates with the results of good deeds), paid respect to elders, and gently poured water over Buddha statues. At some point in time, this evolved into a nationwide water fight which lasts for three days minimum. Evolution or devolution? The opinion is that of the beholder.
There is No Escaping it, You WILL Get Wet
It doesn’t matter if you are on the last stanza of life, or if you are just experience this weird, wildlife for the first time, during Songkran, you will get wet. You want to go outside for milk? Wet. You’re heading to a movie to escape the unrelenting heat of the April sun? Wet. You’re on a motorbike heading to work? Wet. You will get wet.
Don’t try to avoid it, instead try to embrace it. Bring a lot of plastic baggies for your valuables that can easily be damaged if wet. My passport got absolutely destroyed last year and my wallet, as well as my cell phone were casualties of my first Songkran. Don’t let that happen to you. Load up on waterproof bags.
Pack Light Clothes and Remember the Water Proof Bags
OH what to wear?! For Songkran, it’s an easy choice, the lighter the clothing the better.. Wait.. not in terms of color, in terms of weight. It is the hottest time of year in a country that is famous for its heat.
Sandals, shorts, light t-shirts are all recommended, as you will get wet, they are also easy to change and light to carry. When I am out in the Songkran hotspots, I always have my waterproof backpack with me and a plastic bag to place my inevitably drenched clothes in.
Follow the Unspoken Rules of Water Etiquette
Water Etiquette is a thing during Songkran. Imagine walking to 7-11 to grab one of those god-awful amazing Toasties and someone hits you in the face with that infamous Bangkok canal water. A tetanus shot later and your rage is still smouldering under a brown film.
Avoid this and lead by example. Fill your water gun up with fresh clean water from the taps at home or even better, bottled water if you are out and about and feeling generous. Remember to be gentle to monks and small children. Sadly, I’ve seen too many of the lads, six Changs deep, under the unforgiving Thai sun, relapsing back to match day at Wembley stadium circa 1990s.
Respecting the Culture and Tradition
Despite Songkran evolving/devolving into one giant, winner-takes-all water gun fight, its roots are deep in clean, calm and peaceful traditions. So, refute from loading up your SuperSoaker with Leo and squirting the local monks in the face, there will be plenty of time for that on Soi 4 or Walking Street.
Gentle is the keyword here. Gently pour water on monks or elderly’s hands, wait for a blessing if you wish, and take a moment of contemplation and reflection. Accumulate merit during the Songkran holiday.
Grab a Grab. Stay off the Motorbikes
Traffic is probably at its worst during the Songkran season, and that is saying something. Its arguably one of the most dangerous times to drive in Thailand. Please give yourself a lot of time to get to your destination.
A personal piece of advice, avoid motorbikes this time of year. Spend the extra baht and grab a Bolt, taxi or Grab. The extra money will be well worth knowing that you are in a safe, cool environment.
Where to Party. Where to find Inner Peace.
Where to celebrate Songkran is completely up to what type of experience you want to have. If you are looking to party with the locals; Bangkok, Pattaya and Phuket are the best choices.
The major cities all have hubs of partying and debauchery that will surely satisfy. In Bangkok, Khaosan Road is the epicentre of partying during Songkran, followed closely by Sukhumvit.
My personal experience was on Patong Road last year (see the virtual tour above) and had an absolute blast mingling and drinking with the locals and expats alike. So much so, my shorts disappeared in the middle of the festivities! Not interested in waking up on the beach at sunrise without clothing?
Ayutthaya and Hua Hin are more relaxed and laid back. Ayutthaya, the former capital of the Kingdom of Siam, has a very spiritual and reflective atmosphere, if inner-peace and contemplation is the goal of your trip.
Open-Mindedness is the Key to a Successful Songkran
A traveller’s heart is full of adventure. As the title suggests, leave your preconceived notions behind and just embrace the festival’s spirit. Songkran is the one festival that I truly connected with the local Thai population.
I felt as though I was one of them, with my face slathered in Din Sor Pong, a white powder meant to symbolize protection, dancing in the streets of Patong, and generally embracing the country’s warmness.
With that said, three days of being lathered and splashed with water as you head to 7-11 for a coffee can be exhausting; there is no shame at staying inside and taking a break. But try not to get frustrated with the locals.
Photography and Social Media Etiquette
The celebration of the year in Thailand is a goldmine for memorable photos. Remember to ask politely if you want to take a closeup of someone, especially a child or a monk. Read the body language: if they aren’t wet, they probably don’t want to be bothered.
Final Thoughts: Go Out and Get Wet
The Songkran festival will leave a lasting impact on your heart and soul. The festival is a celebration of a new beginning, washing away the troubles and sins of the past year. A look ahead to a prosperous and healthy new year, as the hot summer months approach.
It’s a moment to embrace the love and friendship of the Thai people, and their culture. It’s truly an unforgettable experience, especially when you are visiting. Enjoy the insanity.
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